Bahia Herradura to Quepos.
No wind today so we end up motoring for over 5 hours. About midway we were boarded by the coast guard. Josee was at the wheel and I was wearing a silk slip which I find comfortable in the hot weather but hardly appropriate for getting boarded by official with machine guns. I dashed down below to get changed and yelled to get the fishing gear out of the water. As we had no permits to enter the country let alone a fishing license I suspected that we were in for a heap of fines.
As it turned out they were quite friendly and easy on us …no fines just lots of smiles and paper work with documentation of our passports and boat registration. Traveling with teens maybe an asset.
When we arrive a Quepos we are disappointed as the anchorage is open again with a huge rolly swell and a whole lot of construction happening. We pass onto a bay about a mile away only to be disappointed with more swell and rocks.
The town of Quepos is pretty shanty to say the least. Old buildings, open sewers and prostitutes. The only gems in this town seem to be the Italian deli and art surf shop. It appears this town is a major fishing charter launch site.
The marina was supposed to be completed in 2007 and is about a year away I suppose as they are still working on the break water.
Quepos to Manuel Antonio
I had been looking forward to this anchorage from the start as I had been there 20 years prior on land and found it to be one of the most beautiful places on Earth. A rainforest bordering a white sandy beach in a tiny little bay.
From the sea side its a whole new perspective. Surf and rocky islets that provide a wonderful backdrop for beach photos present a host of dangers for boats at anchor. The swell was pretty bad coming in and breakers were crashing in about 100 meters from our bow. We tried to tuck in around a point to get away from the swell but as the tide dropped the waves started breaking closer and closer. The surf made it impossible to safely land the dingy ashore. It was torture being stuck on the boat with beautiful beaches and rain forests beckoning to be explored. For me, it was worse than someone placing a lovely slab of gorgonzola and a cold glass of Chablis in front of me only to have a glass wall come up every time I reach towards them. I am left to salivate, as I explore the landscape though a pair of binoculars, looking for monkeys, sloth’s and toucans.
The girls begged to surf and Chantal pulled a fast one by leapfrogging overboard for a swim. It was so funny I laughed for a long time with the image of her springing off the boat so unexpected like a frog jumping into a pond.
We pulled up anchor at sunset and headed back for Quepos for another rock and roll night at anchor…
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