April 3, 2008

Cabo Balanco





Bahia Carrillo to Islas Tortugas
Shortly after rounding the point we hooked and landed a 12 pound yellow fin tuna. Our first fish!
We motored for pretty much most of the day. As we approached Cabo Balanco a huge rock iced with white Guano and covered in Birds, we could see breaking surf on the land side and white water on the island side. It is extemely challenging when you don’t know the area and have to trust that your charts are correct. Nobel Tec elecronic charts have been wrong on occasion so you really have to check things out for your self. The bubbling water was similar to the Polier Pass eddies we have at home. From afar it looked a little like breaking waves indicating rocks. It was kind of strange given the breaking surf is about a mile off shore on our port side. Its the shallow shoaling up that makes this happen. We white knuckled through the gap which was exciting as a huge current slowed us down to about 2 knots. Sea birds (Guano) goofy looking things, landed on the pulpits and boom virtually unafraid of our presence. They started to dive after our fishing gear and we frantically reeled in our lines hoping not to hook one.
We turned into the Gulf of Nicoya and enjoyed the spectacular sites of the Gulf Islands. Many areas are biological reserves. The rock formations were beautiful, offering cave diving and snorkeling. We decided to anchor in Isla Tortuga a tiny little cove offering white sandy beaches and a tropical forest reserve.
Our excitement was deflated somewhat, when we saw the site of the Windstar cruise ship again. We seem to be following it. We could see the tall masts poking up behind the Island as we approached it. We rounded the corner and were shocked to see so many tour operator party boats anchored there.
Despite all the traffic it was a beautiful anchorage. Thankfully all the boats left around 4 and we had the bay to ourselves.
We met "Open Gates" a family cruising from Palsbo Oregon on a Jeaneau 46 . They were travelling with thier two boys 12 and 8 who became enraputred to have kids to hang with ( even though they were girls)
Unfortunalty we had to abandon the anchorage around 10 pm as winds switched around dramatically putting us too close to the shore. We sailed in the dark to an anchorage just over an hour away. We were accompanied by dolphins sparkling in the phosphorescence. Ballena Bay promised a better position for wind. We arrive just before midnight and suffered a rolly sleepless night because of the swell. We high tailed it back to Isla Tortuga the next morning and anchored in a much better place with lots of chain for better holding taking our chances of wind blowing us ashore.
We enjoyed a nice quiet day cleaning the boat, swimming and snorkeling. The fish were amazing lots of angel fish, and large schools of jack.
An antiquated wreck of a ferry boat, looking very much like a BC Ferry minor vessel cruised in with salsa music blasting though the anchorage. The speakers on these things suck as much as the choice of music they blast. Being Saturday, we were plagued with party boats and jet skis for most of the day. It was exhausting.
The Ferry was hilarious. They converted the car deck to passenger space and dance area.

The snorkeling is the best so far with large schools of fish, fan coral and colorful coral.

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